toad and mole cycle across the centre

toads last post (late due to sick mole)

2009-05-31T23:04:00.000-07:00

Be-travelling this journey with you has been incredible.the way you listen to new friends and to my rambles so patiently and tirelessly.you are a natural, what a gift!your little acts of love (bushart!), your enthusiasm, your reflection, your common sense, your clear communication, the way you dont eat tomato unless its thinly sliced-and carrott if its raw.your ability to laugh @ things and be flexible.your nickname is apt and you dont smell.you giggle.Alot.but this is good cos then i join in too.But not when youre on your bike-a hazard to both yourself and other traffic!you dont like birdpoo.you get excited and you shake.you dont like hospitals, but you do enjoy the odd powdered milk and T-Bone cooked in butter at sunrise on a train travelling through the desert ;)

being back in sydney has enabled me to articulate what i loved in the outback (and my other thoughts when i was immersed in waterfalls is still in packages from darwin...haha) and the lush topend.
Out there, space exists to meet strangers.People are viewed as possibilites rather than problems.
(of course this is a major generalisation-im aware that this is simply my experience, and have also experience the opposite of this) but overall, a chance to interact with someone new is a transaction filled with interest and sinceerity.

Since being back i have observed some changed things about my behaviour. I look directly at the people everywhere around me-i stand up tall.as if waiting to stop.chat.sit on the ground.but there is no time it seems in the city for the nobody walking beside you to become your friend.

i felt at home with the generous spirits we met.blown away over and over again with the kindness we recieved, but comfortable as well. At last, seeing in action the desire i feel when upon meeting someone new wanting to help out whichever way you can.
listen.food.directions.laughter.stories.time.
people have been so generous with no questions asked.happy for changed plans to include me and be-if only for a night-with no obligations (most of the time!)

my heart was sad as i looked at people in sydney everywhere, all on a mission, somewhere.no-one smiled back.this isnt to be damning the people (you amazing precious souls!!) i know who live here with life, passion, life, joy, heart, excitement. not at all-its simply a stark contrast to the place (both physical and emotional) i have inhabitated for the past 2 months or so.

this journey has been incredible.and i do feel proud!i feel as if there is another layer of stillness in me.its way down there-but it feels solid.maybe like a massive chunk of beautiful hardwood.smooth, but so dark you can hardly see it.but without it you feel as if you're standing on a thin crust of mud which holds together-just, in the dry and when it rains, manages to reform.no, now ive got a plank.somewhere.dont know why or how or what even, but i feel strong and a bit different.words are cool, but they can also hide where we need to be-silence.which can feel like truth.

the land has a spirit of its own and i feel as if we've just started talking.she's planted in there and nothing can take that away.but its just a seed.may i nourish and protect it.

i feel happy that im made to love.that im made to give.that im made to experience.to learn.to accept.to step back in order for someone else to lead.to step up to things that look too big.to trust.to be open.and to be me.

your support means more than you know.
may we all keep growing.
toad.over.and.out.
xxx

the end for windy

2009-05-18T04:41:00.000-07:00

We have made it to darwin. Riding through Litchfield park was a refreshing change to the rest of the trip. Time passed slowly and there was no pressure o keep moving. We camped where and when we wanted. Watrfalls. swimming holes. wattles. peace.
We cycled to Mandora which signaled the end of our trip... or so we thought! A days buggy ride on beautiful coastline and then the scariest joy ride of my life. neither buggy had doors, mine supplied a roll cage while mels had the seatbelt, but what they did have where two awesome drivers who managed to dodge trees, anthills and boggy mud. After a quiet dinner we raced to catch the ferry across to The big smoke. What a wave of achievement. Unable to sit still Mel and I jumped around like a pair of teenagers at a new kids on the block concert. Proud... proud to have made it, proud to have experienced such an enjoyable trip, proud to have had such an harmonious partnership.
So now to wind up with some personal notes:

What I love about the top end-
The camoflaged butterflies that revieal themselves with a quick flutter of their wings, surprising me with flashes of the deepest most luminous blue.
The stunning dragonflies hovering around us, showing off their rosepink tails and intricate silverwings.
The little ants with the big green bums, who investigate our belongings but never bite.
The numerous waterfalls (each one as stunning as the last) that supply us with fresh drinking water - no longer relying on roadhouses and towns.
The generosity of the people who call the outback their home.
When I first wrote this I was sitting in waterfall letting the current flap my feet around as it raced down stream, birds were calling out to one and other and I thought about what this trip has taught me and here is some of it:
What I have learnt about the land
Australia is a large and diverse country.
You can live off the land completely, however this takes years of teachings and millions of years of culture and knowledge.
I've also learnt that nature dances to her own drum and no matter what my plans are it is she that ultimately guides my journey.

What I have learnt about the outback
out here your past means nothing! what does matter is who your are right now.
People out here work hard, work together as a community and believe that you get out of life what you put in.
I have also found that friendships which have only existed for 2 days can feel as though they have been there forever.

Now turning to Mel... what I have learnt about Mel
she is one of the strongest people I know, in body, heart and soul.
She is a machine on the bike and has the most courageous and loving heart. Which brings me to the next topic

What I have learnt from Mel
I've learnt to open my heart, let my guard down and see past first impressions and scepticism.
To be open to those around you and the generosity they offer... it's ok to accept help every now and then!
I've also learnt the preciousness of friendship and not to be afraid to let others know you appreciate them. Mel you are an inspiration to me and I don't think I could have had a more enjoyable journey, thankyou lovely lady!

So now finally what I have learnt about myself
I have learnt that I am capable of setting and achieving goals - big and small.
I have learnt that I do love meeting and listening to strangers, more than I thought (everyone has a story).
And finally that there is no room for regret in my life. Every decision I have made has been the right one given the knowledge I had at the time. Each one of those decisions has led me here (a babbling water fall with a shady canopy and no sign civilisation - of course that was when I first wrote this, now i'm in an internet booth).
If I finish my degree it is because I have chosen to.
If I travel around oz on my bike untill my knees give in, it is because I have chosen to.
If I get married, have some kids and take up tennis, it is because I have chosen to.
Am sooooo thankful to have had a life full of choices! Never again will I complain about having to make a decision.

Thankyou all for following the blog, comments were very much appreciated.

signing off wINDY mOLE (bE)

medical update

2009-05-07T00:08:00.000-07:00

Windy Mole has plaster cast on left hand... possible fracture due to road kill (wallaby), but the tour rolls on!

adelaide river-jam and buffalo

2009-05-06T23:59:00.000-07:00

writing to you from adelaide river-100km S Darwin! Be and i have been hard at work for the last 3 and a half days!! true!! we have felt less pressure to make ground since we left Katherine, and have had some fun adventures......

Been camping out a lot and loving it. Have been riding on the old Stuart Highway which is windy, hilly, narrow, in the process being burnt off (riding past flames with fuel in my pannier is a bit scary) and has creeks with water in them...woah (water is still a novelty, expecially water we can drink!!) swimming after a hot day (average is about 33 degrees) in robin falls 4 days ago was bliss.we ended up staying the night there and in the morning i got up and walked upto the water fall, climbed up the falls and found a little pool of calm water being fed by teh second fall...soooo tempted for nudie swims! instead i explored further up the falls and was annoyed at myself for wearing no shoes (shuddup!) cos it meant i couldnt trek further down to the stream before it flowed over falls...so clear and pristine. haha, so instead i got my kit off and slid into the first pool i found and watched the sun turnm everything golden and sparkly as it poked its head over the hills...ahhhhhh. walking back down to our little spot there was another spot perfect for mel with no clothes on, so i went for a secon dip!! oh my goodness!! 2xnudie swims plus an explore, climb and sunrise, all bgefore breakfast and coffee. YIPPEEE!!

that day we left late and cycled the rest of the track to adelaide river, as we saw the current highway we also heard brass music and saw balloons tied to the old gate of a railway house thing...we looked at each other...yep, lets check it out! treddled on in and smelt sausage sizzle, hed the brass band playing and stalls set up, poeple hanging around, how cool! i approched a jam stand and before i could even look at the jams the lady took hold of my arm...are you passng through?! me: yes... her:do you want a few days work? i'll feed and water you... me: oooo that actually sounds great, but i ahve to check with my friend be cos we're travelling together... her: no worries

and so me and be ate devonshire tea and talked to the tuba player and decided that yes, we'll stay to work for one and ahalf days

haha!!

anyway, to cut the long story short, we've been here for 3 and half days now, not working but volunteering our time. Patsy and her husband tommy have treated us so generously and the jam that patsy makes is incredible. it's called rosella jam, not the birds, but native little red flwoers that we heldped her go find in the bush, and really really long grass! its been a hoot and we feel like theyve really taken us under their wing. tommy and his sons now own a trucking company that runs iout of adelaide river, but his major love was buffalo catching and thats what he did for the majority of his working life.patsy cooked for the team out bush and my goodness, they have some stories to tell!! the rosellas are hard work and normally patsy does it all on her own (the kids and grandkids and tommy have had enough with rosella's....ha till seh found us!!) but its been an awesome change for us and we feel well rested (and far out does patsy cook!) we've spotted them, cut them, trimmed them off the stem, then washed them, then cut them up for jam, fiddly work...but so good. (chrsitmas time...yum!) we feel totally in awe of their hospitality and are thinking about next years harvest...(patsy's eyes light up!) we call patsy mad (for the jam) and she calls us crazymad (for the bikes) we're a good trio and have also enjoyed beer and spas after a hard days work :)

alas, im rambling on. i feel pretty sad that its almost over. riding has become the wy of life, as has living in one spot for a day or two ata time, notlooking forward to footpaths and noise, busyness and obligation.
we're averaging 100km a day and feeling good.fitness has kicked in. no more highway for us, backway to darwin via litchfield and mandorah-the ferry to darwin!!

i'll leave you be. (haha, not Be as in mole BE-sorry...)
the support and interest shown by you guys has been so encouragng-seriously dont underestimate it.its been so GREAT to see comments and have people ask us wheere we are and the rest.TAHNKYOU!
oooh-and ive been converted to elvis! teeee!!

much loving MEL xxtoad (-not cane-GROSS)

2009-05-06T23:41:00.001-07:00

So many people have warned us about Tennant Creek - buildings with smashed windows, fights in the street and lock up everything on your bike. We roll in, lots happening, people wandering around, in and out of buildings (glass in place) and we grab a cool drink from the petrol station. Smiles, nods and hellos. Share a joke with an older lady - have no idea what it was about:) We sit recieve messages and confirm (again) why we are on this adventure... to experience!
Stopping off at the art gallery we're asked to wait for 10 min, places that run on their own time, I love it! Sweaty bike shorts off, long skirt and undie free... hello cool breeze1 Art gallery is open and again we barge in full of words smiles and giggles. Wow, contempory art by communities from all over Aust, Robbin you would love thisexhibition! Prints so beautiful it took us ages to work our way around the wall. A beautiful gift and we are educated on some bush tucker and techniques for keeping the mozzies at bay, all by a young girl behind the counter helping her mum.
I love Tennant Creek, feel free to sit anywhere and wait for Mel. People hardly notice me sitting on the footpath inspecting my dry cracked feet. First stop in town on our second day (and last) is the local op-shop... wow, never have I seen such bargainns. Shopping frenzy takes over and I try on t-shirt after t-shirt. Make some quick decisions with the help of my personal fashion assistant (Mel) and race off to the post office to send them home. Awesome.
Today we ride to three-ways to see Rod and Lois. Hope they are there, can't let myself get too excited... no plans, just chance meetings. Too late hopes are high.
Be (windy blind mole) xxx

we've been to barrow creek!

2009-05-06T23:13:00.000-07:00

I love and hate the 4am starts. I hate getting up, particularly now that the mornings are cold. I love the silence with which we ride in the darkness. Both Mel and I pedal along in our own world. It's always the same, side by side, few words, thoughts a plenty. Then as per usual the sun performs her amazing act - rising from the horizon and running the sky through a series of colours. This morning cloud cover reflects and disperses the firey red while thin patches in the clouds luminate with the deepest yellow. Realising too late that I wanted to stop and take it all in, my heart sinks and we pedal on.
A big day for us 90kms to barrow creek - awesome little pub held together by the foreign currency pinned to the walls. Art offered to us by a local lady... beautiful, Mel and I can't resist and we buy 2.
Michael, who has worked in the area for over 4 years serves us from behind the bar. His shift ends and it's story time for us, we are taken through the history of both the town and himself - complete with photos.
The day is growing old and decisions once again need to be made. So it is with reluctance (again) that we pedal off towards the northern horizon. 7pm amd heavy cloud cover speeds up the arrival of darkness, pretty soon I can hardly see the road in front of my tyres. 50kms to rest area... go go go
Be xx

Alice Springs and beyond

2009-04-29T19:47:00.000-07:00

woah, where to begin...

In order I think, so firstly Benny! Dude, thankyou sooooo much, not just for your genrosity, goodtimes, amazing food and spectacular sunrise but most importantly for giving me the opportunity to completely relax. For the first time since leaving my mountains home I felt 100%, completely uninhibited Be! Hanging out withh you was like hanging out with someone I had known for years... no formalities needed! Loved it and loved you, keep sipping that tea:)
Then there was Mike. Wow. What an amazing soul! Your love, respect and curiosity for the land inspires me so much. It was so nice to meet someone whho just loves to be out there. I feel there was so much to learn from you and am sad we didn't track you down sooner. I loved bouncing my imagination off yours and the chats were such a breath of fresh air. Thank you and Andrea both for sharing your peice of teh world with us... know we'll see you again, hopefully under the stars in teh middle of nowhere.
So many more people and to you I send much love (greg, sorry we didn't catch you at teh second footy match...bummer! Might bump into you in Gunnadah eh?).
Alice Springs not sure what to make of her. Loved her and hated her. Like most towns she had her good and her bad. Being on bikes for 3 weeks and teh restrictions that come with this mode of transport, possibly made it hard to enjoy the surrounding beauty. However, when we finally did get out and see some sights we really appreciated them and their remoteness. Visiting Standley chasm gently placed a seed in teh back of my mind... can I fit the whole larapinta trail into the end of my trip and if I can not find another interested party, could I walk it alone?
My heart says yes, my head sayssave it for teh next trip! (any takers?).
Anyway we left Alice yesterday after a week off our bikes. A big day 90km! We were meant to get to Aileron but fancied sleeping under teh stars again... can't get enough of this amazing night sky. Very little energy in the morning but after second breakfast I felt back in the swing of it. Most of teh ride was a bit of a blurr, and the landscape was full of trees.
Sitting at the rest stop Mel and I sip cool jasmine tea (thanx Benny) and relax. The eat of teh day hits me like a massive wave and I'm left lying on the concrete seat, recovery needed. By mid afternoon Mels got coals ready for tonights dinner, we sit doing our own thing, occasionally flipping through the memories on our camera... wow, we are actually doing this. I know heaps of people have done it before us and are doing it now, but for us it is such a huge adventure. Challenging, mentally (must keep pedaling), physically (must keep pedaling). The sunsets as we eat dinner, cooked to perfection on teh coals. Night has arrived and we get our first flat! weird! Together we sit in teh dark and fix thhe damn thing... again a perfect partnership, despite the challenge of bike mechanics by torch light spirits are high and giggles are loud... too loud! After 3 shooting stars I remove my specs and dream the nighht away.
4 am- time to get up, damn it's cold.

Be xx

Camping with mike and reflections of alice

2009-04-29T19:25:00.000-07:00

Intoxication, social paralysis, yet socially acceptable. It seems nothing in this peculiar desert oasis can be complete with out it. Buildings whhere foriegn tourists come only to socialise with other foreign tourists, in a world where reality is at teh very least blurred, if not completely masked by the affects of multiple drugs (both legal and illegal).
Paranoia, aggression, ecstasy and lust... all I see are humans in distress. Conversations about "our indegenous peoples and their lack of respect and responsability". What, I ask, is so respectful about coming to a country driving to a rest area (for free camping), crapping in teh bush and not even bothering to walk 50 meters from your van to take in the amazing veiw. Where is the responsibility in coming to another country to kill off your brain cells in the pursuit of social acceptance and arrogance? Rant over.
And now to camping (out of Alice). Flies everywhere, but nothing a quick swish and swoosh won't fix. Sharing a campfire with beautiful souls, crows watch from teh branches, the wind gently slides through the trees and the wood crackles as the flames wrap around the branches. Birds are singing away as usual and the only other sound is the scratching of my pen... hmmmmmmmmm could stay here forever (or untill it got too hot;))

Be xx

katherine

2009-04-28T00:22:00.000-07:00

made it to katherine!!

swam with waterlillies in the bush springs yesterday-hheaded to gorges and waterfalls for a week up to darwin!

sorry noi new posts, have heaps but no time. will do as soon as we have time, space and chheap internet.

love toad and mole

xx

go down like an ape

2009-04-06T19:46:00.000-07:00

PHOTOS UNDERNEATH BLOGS LOADED ON TEH 6TH OF APRIL... CHECK THEM OUT!!

WE LOVE YOU ALL BUT HAVE NO RECEPTION, WE'RE ON THE ROAD.

TOAD AND (WINDY) mOLE XX

OI BRUCE WHERE THE HELL ARE YOU???

alice...

2009-04-06T19:45:00.000-07:00

Wow.cant believe im here. Sitting in the afternnoon sun. The landscape is red and green (a kind of musty, teal green mind you) and long. In a backyard who's backdrop is a massive stoney ridge-better known as 'the gap'. In the streets of Alice (to quote Be) we have big dogs (short fences) and homemade potato schnapps-not American guns!
Its a funny feeling being back in a town again. We've rested for 2 days and ventured out not much!! Aiming to get all our admin done today (hence all the blogs up at once!) so we can begin to explore the ranges and the land outside of town. My craving for flavoured milk has subsided since being still and out of the elements. Ive had 2 grumpy sessions. It's such a rollercoaster. Not only physical, but mental and emotional too. Be is incredible and im so grateful i can be so honest with her. none of its taken personal-its all just part of the ride. being amongst internet, phone, houses brings something back that i love being away from. the last little while weve been cooking on fires-not bothering with cookers. and you feel somewhat confined ina town where it seems all you can do is spend money (even if you have none?!! how?!!) i also start to miss people in town setting-who apart from Be know me real well. I guess its that relaxation silence you can have with friends. but we are being so spoilt. the people we've met and have been looking after us-too incredible to ruin with words. just under halfway...incredible. i close my eyes and feel the warmth of the sun being soaked up by my skin..delicious. the wind blows my hair.have to keep reminding myself that this is all real. remember it and experience it for what it is: indescribable.
(toad)mel x

daydreaming by bike

2009-04-06T19:44:00.000-07:00

After a short break from our bikes my bum finds itself back on the familiar narrow saddle. Again tired, yet I feel as though my legs are strong. After a short distance my mind wanders from the spectacular stars overhead to more personal and irrelevant things. Pointless distractions from the distance we are trying to make. I think about: returning the panniers to Duncan
living arrangements in Sydney
centrelink business in Alice Springs

Then to my right the suns starts to glow, her rays washes away all these trivial thoughts and again I'm left with nothing but awe at the diverse landscape. Not what I envisioned the desert to be. The ant hills which were sitting on the horizon are now standing tall on either side of us, strange trees line the ridges sporadically. As it does to so many, the landscape appears prehistoric. My imagination takes over...
We began as biminisculeherbosaurus', over time we have evolved into biminisculeomniosaurus'! As we make our way across the land in search of greater food sources or a more satisfying climate we are passed by some caravaners. Ahh the inquisitive and generous - these I imagine are brachasaurus', also making the pilgrimage north. The cars, who move with speed and stealth, should always be treated with caution - much like the raptor. Finally the fiercest predator of all, the Tyrannasaurus Rex (AKA the road trains).
I love allowing myself to fall backwards into the arms of my imagination, bringing with me the landscape and teh new day. Another T.Rex roars up behind us, you can hear them miles away. The roar grows louder and we wobble off onto the gravel for protection. Safe. Back on the road. SNAP... an impressive sight brings me back to reality. A wedge tail eagle soars overhead. I love this country. I love my bike and the places it can take me.
Wow, only 5 km to stuart wells, my legs are strong and all I can think of is flavoured milk.

Be (windy Mole) xx

mt Ebenezer

2009-04-06T19:43:00.001-07:00

Hitting me @ Mt Eb
Its hitting me every now and then what an adventure we're on. Everday so different. Be's buzzing and amazing and awesome and living up to her name-windymole so well.only tears thus far have been onesof unbelief @ the generosity and goodness we ahve been shown. feel slightly lonely after 3 days @ Mt Eb, but being back on the bike felt amazing....woooooooo!!!!!! Mel xx

Mt Ebenezer - 200km from Uluru

Freedom to sit, lounge, daydream and sleep. I feel as though all are welcome to come here and drift away. Still over stimulated and excited to meet some of Chevvy's friends. Smiles, high energy and loud words explode from us as we approach the counter. Every roadhouse we visit we take over, staying 4 times as long as most. Here though it is madness! Bus loads of tourists, on their way to the rock, stop here. Tour guides usher them off the busses. Surging forward the masses sit inside and devour their sandwiches, salads and sweets. 15 min later and the round up begins, piles if plastic, cardboard and food scraps fall thoughtlessly into the garbage bin. Silence. Bewildered. Shrugging it off (what else can I do, I too am apart of the transient hoards) Igo and check out the local gallery. Women from the local community come to paint and design, food is their central theme. A special moment... "come, come watch" and we are invited into their creative space. No need for too much verbal communication. Such an honor, to be asked to share their art. "Photo", Rosie* mimes the action of taking a photo. Usually a no no or an exchange for money, but nothing more than a beautiful gesture and a memory. However rules are not meant to be disregarded and we are asked to leave. Humbled.

Be xx

Daydreaming by bike

After a short break from our bikes my bum finds itself back on the familiar narrow saddle. Again tired, yet I feel as though my legs are strong. After a short distance my mind wanders from the spectacular stars overhead to more personal and irrelevant things. Pointless distractions from the distance we are trying to make. I think about: returning the panniers to Duncan
living arrangements in Sydney
centrelink business in Alice Springs

Then to my right the suns starts to glow, her rays washes away all these trivial thoughts and again I'm left with nothing but awe at the diverse landscape. Not what I envisioned the desert to be. The ant hills which were sitting on the horizon are now standing tall on either side of us, strange trees line the ridges speratically. As it does to so many, the landscape appears prehistoric. My imagination takes over...
We began as biminisculeherbosaurus', over time we have evolved into biminisculeomniosaurus'! As we make our way across the land in search of greater food sources or a more satisfying climate we are passed by some caravaners. Ahh the inquisitive and generous - these I imagine are brachasaurus', also making the pilgrimage north. The cars, who move with speed and stealth, should always be treated with caution - much like the raptor. Finally the fiercest predator of all, the Tyrannasaurus Rex (AKA the road trains).
I love allowing myself to fall backwards into the arms of my imagination, bringing with me the landscape and teh new day. Another T.Rex roars up behind us, you can hear them miles away. The roar grows louder and we wobble off onto the gravel for protection. Safe. Back on the road. SNAP... an impressive sight brings me back to reality. A wedge tail eagle soars overhead. I love this country. I love my bike and the places it can take me.
Wow, only 5 km to stuart wells, my legs are strong and all I can think of is flavoured milk.

Be (windy Mole) xx

river bed camping

2009-04-06T19:42:00.001-07:00

Red river gum camps @ Agnes Creek-SA/NT border
cant believe we're here!! Camping at the border-even if we only make it this far, we done good!! Last nights camp was beautiful. i remember watching a documentary about these apparant ghost rivers. They're wide, with red sand and massive green gums. The trees look so alive and vibrant compared to the rest of the landscape. Their roots go a long way down into moisture. Anyway, thats where we camped last night!! Just with the fly- we looked up and coulod see the entire sky full of stars. Incredible. Felt safe. Thought i heard a howl...
So many birds today! flock of irradescent green out of a bush, parrotts, hawkes. There was such a shimmering in the sky then it dissapeared. birds travelling all together.had to keep repeating to myself-'homestretch, homestretch, homestretch' to get to the border. fly net super handy!!
(toad) mel x

onto erldunda

2009-04-06T19:41:00.000-07:00

Todays ride was glorious. As I pedaled along at a decent and managable pace I wish I had paid more attention in school. Dissappointed that my vocabulary is far too small to continue describing the everchanging landscape. Again the expansive sky takes me by surprise. The sun sneaks up behind me and before I know it the dark indigo sky is replaced by a blue that is both soft and vibrant. As teh sun rises to the east a purple ring sits just above the horizon in the west.
I feel good again today and my legs are starting to feel strong... I know though that this is momentary and that at any minute I could be back on the ground demanding a 15 min power nap. Before we know it we a rolling into Erldunda. So many people in one place, we are overwhelmed and over stimulated. Hyperactivity kicks in and we must look like the wiggles on speed!

Kulgera

2009-04-06T19:40:00.000-07:00

The stars are up and our flashy lights are on. We can see the lights of the roadhouse but it looks fenced in. How the heck do we get in? Finally two massive road trains pull in and reveal the descrete turn off. Road signs in the outback seem slightly miss placed; "so, where should we put the sign?" "awww over there'll do I reckon!". Entering the roadhouse a trucky mummbles something... indecipherable. Then I turn to the counter, there leaning in hard on both hands stands a tattooed giant, his hardened stare goes straight through me. A nervous laugh escapes my lips as I explain what the hell Mel and I are doing in Kulgera at 9pm wearing lycra. The response "dickheads" then silence. No change of expression and I can still feel his stare drilling into me; again "dickheads, camping costs $11 but there's no room, bookeds out". I suggest cycling back 20kms to camp at teh border... Mel refuses. Not sure I've heard correct I ask again, still no expression just a flat "we're booked out". We decide to step aside and chat about options, then there it is, the corner of his mouth (barely visible due to the moustach which flares out all the way down and under his chin) curves slightly and the cheekiest grin appears but nothing more. Humour! No longer feeling out of my depth I explode into a fit of laughter and return teh slander "aww your bloody dickhead". Immediately there's a connection and this scary giant suddenly takes us under his wing. Turns out Chevvy lived next door to Pro Hart (owns a couple of originals) and has lived a pretty wild and public life. Upon leaving the most sincere gesture lets me know that no matter where I am there will be someone watching out for me. A sensitive soul in disguise. "This is out back country Australia - spend more money you bastards" but for us funds are low and it will be a budget trip for the next 1700kms.

Be xx

sunrises inbetween deserts

2009-04-06T19:39:00.000-07:00

Imagine the whole night sky with no trees, hills, buildings, lights. The horizon is visible everywhere. The milkyway stretches from one side to the other-it almost looks curved. So still and quiet. The wind and the creaky pedals are all i can hear. The only light coming from our headtorches.The noise on the road tricks us by thinking there are trucks-but there's not, it's just us. Slowly, slowly the black starts to glow to our right. The suns on her way. She does it real slow but puts on an incredible show. Its amazing-to your right the sky is changing-but the moon still shines so bright-to your left.The stars seem reluctant to go. How can it all exist at once?! soon the stars have left and all around are tones of lavender, pale rose pink with a taurine blue in between. Except where the sun is-thats either a butter yellow or a peachy pink, then it transforms to orangey or an even richer yellow. The grass tufts look slightly pink, the saltbush looks silver and could almost be shimmering. And the dirt. Such a rich, deep red.As far as you can see is landscape. It used to intimidate me, but now im just awed by it. silenced by. when the sun has risen-it totally feels like a new day. the early morning has been washed away and im refreshed and keen for however many hours and kms we have to go.
(toad) mel x

leaving Marla

2009-04-06T19:38:00.000-07:00

Another early rise 3:30 am! Yesterday was a rest day yet I have trouble winding down. No matter how tired I am there are things to be done and they run through my mind at such a pace I almost feel dizzy.
Finding a kindred spirit, short, gassy and an artist who holds his work close and rarely shares, loves people and their stories, listens as well as gives. Smiling eyes and a sensitivity that contrasts with his weather beaten skin and bristly beard. Pat never allow your creativity to fade.
An extra lemon-lime bitter takes us later into the evening. Good company and reluctant good nights. Still in the back of my mind I know we are just a distraction in what is otherwise a mans world...
Back to this morning... not enough sleep. Body feels fine but need more sleep. Can't talk, can barely pedal. The stars are breath taking. No moon. 6:15 and the sky is still black. Large shrubs cast dark shadows on both sides of the road. The only sound is the rythmic whirring of our tires on the road as we ride side by side. Eyelids heavy, teh weight of my head seems to increase with every 500 meters. My load feels heavy. I ask Mel if I'm carrying too much... prob just tired though. Hungry again, my stomach feels like it's eating itself even though we had lentils before we left! Can't seem to eat enough.
The dark shadows are now visible and reveal a scattering of trees and shrubs. Slowly the sun turns the sky to yellow, everything is so clear and crisp... brekky time!
Stomach satisfied and we puish on. Eyelids still heavy. Microsleeps mean I miss the landscape, occasionally nodding of off yet my legs continue to pedal. Microsleeps turn into slightly longer periods of escapism - amazing, even in this state I manage to ride relatively straight. I no longer have any control over my conciousness and I pull over immediately. "Mel I need a 15 minute nap". Straight onto the gravel, kick my stand and drop to the ground:
MEL: you should move into the shade
BE: nope... zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

15min nap and I'm back on my bike and my legs are charging away... eyes definately open
Be xx

cadney... not a moment to soon

2009-04-05T23:44:00.000-07:00

Finally arrived at cadney roadhouse. 9pm. Today we rode 160kms... wow! Coming out of coober Pedy in teh dark at 4am was, for both of us, eerie. A town that appears deserted both day and night haunts me for at 40 kms, only then am I able to relax. Anxiety sets a good pace for riding though and we cover 90kms before lunch.
Sleeping in the heat of the day is better than riding, but flies torment us constantly. Tossing and turning I manage to slip in and out of slumber land. Time to hit the road 5:30pm and the sun still stings, teh air is heavy and the further north we go the more humid the climate.
50/60 kms till Cadney... easy! F**k... head wind again! Gradual incline in the road and I go through waves of optimism generally dominated and pushed aside by fatigue and defeat. Find teh zone Be, head down concentrate on your breathing and before I know it I'm surging forward at a respectable pace. SNAP... we're never going to get there. I hate the rollercoasterof mindsets, slipping from one to teh other in a matter of seconds. Night falls and heavy cloud cover sheilds the sunset, stealing my magical moment. No gasp of amazement, no confirming moment as to why I'm doing this. Day turns to night without expression and we must push on.
20kms out and we can see the lights of Cadney roadhouse, hopes are ellevated and new found strength drives my legs harder. An hour later and you can still not be sure how far away the roadhouse is. Distance can not be measured, estimation helps mental perserverance but has no real accuracy... pointless trying to guess. Finally arrival... skull a cold drink... sleep.

Be xx

made it to alice!

2009-04-05T22:02:00.000-07:00

we've made it to alice and are enjoying downtime...bit weird being in civilisation. Be's got some words and theres piccies below...awesome

be & mel
xxx

2009-04-05T21:15:00.000-07:00

2009-04-05T20:56:00.000-07:00

Hell ride

2009-03-25T21:23:00.000-07:00

Leaving Glendambo reluctantly, what beautiful people, maybe a return visit during tourist season eh?
A strong head wind torments us all day. Frustration builds as I watch the speedo drop to 12kms per hour, nothing you can do. Keep drinking. Keep pedaling. Keep calm...ggrrrrrrrr. Woww how about this heat hey? Gotta stop. Red faces, nothing to say. Then the most amazing smile heals our hearts, puts us back on teh same page and releases our tears; then Bilyani is gone! Left to continue. The distance required is unachievable, body tired. decisions need to be made, can't think. tired. getting late. Stay or continue... and we're off. Rest area and there is Mike, we interrupt his solitude, but share stories and he inspires a passion for teh land and the wonders of teh desert- no matter how desolate it seems.
6 am rise... more like 6:30. Tea, photos and exchange of details (oh and a top up of water, Thanks Mike... Life saver!).
Already hot tired and teh scenery has forgotten to change. Legs are tired and teh heat is making it hard to make decisions again. Quick 2 min noodles snack stop (thanks Bruce... again), I can just hear him " back on ya bike and toughen up!" The hottest part of the day will be arriving soon and we still haven't covered enough ground!! Where the bloody hell is Coober Pedy? Bikes are dragged off teh hwy and onto the fine soft red sand. I set up the shade and Mel cooks Mi Goreng.
Sun is high, directly overhead. The small trees only offer fragmented shade, nowhere near enough to protect us from the harsh rays of the sun. Lunch cooked and enjoyed. We lay under the haphazard shade cloth I prepared earlier and one last glance at our set up reveals an army of ants taking back their territory! Forced to sleep under a smaller bush. 4 hours till the heat of teh day will subside, sleep is the best thing as tonight we have a lot of ground to cover! Flashy lights ready!

Be xx

onto Glendambo

2009-03-25T21:07:00.001-07:00

Standing in eh middle of nowhere, having been dropped off the train. "Don't go this way, go that way", am I in wonderland? Both ways look identical! The mad hatter and teh cheshire cat roll away as we are left making sure we don't head in teh wrong direction. In the distance (coming from that way) a small yellow dot slowly grows bigger. A wave. A few shouted words lost in the empty distance. Warrabe, a fellow cyclist, panniers, water bottles and determination. Exchanging intra-web sites and contact details... joy!
Off the red sand and back onto the hwy, 10kms to Glendambo. What a beautiful arrival, Louise smiles from the counter "you must be the cycling girls, we've been expecting you". New to the business but so at home... will be making sure all know to stop in here and say hi! Rod and louise your kindness was overwhelming:) A nice bed, shower and teh best quiche - only regret was eating it so fast I never got to savour the flavour, next time I promise! A quick trip with Ryan out to a pub in kingoonya - population 8! Such a coo little pub... will be spreading teh word. Ryan I know we won't see you in Marla, so a great big THANK YOU! for your generosity and advice, local knowledge is invaluable!
6 am rise... 6:30... 6:50 packed, breakfast ordered and what we believe will be enough water for a 252km push to Coober Pedy. eeeekkkk!!!

tech glitch 2-HELLO!!!

2009-03-22T01:37:00.000-07:00

sorry guys we're not very good on these things.

-jonesy&greg-video wouldnt download, but photos are up!
-Be and Mel have both written 2 blogs in between photos, Be's one is now part of 'older posts' due to photos...check it out, she writes beautiful as.
-trying to get a hold of diamond bruce and mike in alice.

probs wont have net till alice which is another few weeks away...thanks for keeping in touch and comments are the best!!!

see you on the road...at 4am tomorrow...eeeek!!

be&mel xx

prep in a-town

2009-03-22T01:22:00.000-07:00

on the way to pimba-and coober

2009-03-22T00:54:00.000-07:00

pimba - coober...still

2009-03-22T00:08:00.000-07:00

technical glitch

2009-03-21T19:07:00.000-07:00

photos below

Be's Blog

Bruce-shoot us an email>? we didnt get yours before we left.

jonesy and greg, trying to do video, might have to put her up in alice, we'll see.

sorrry...

be and mel xx

overwhelming goodness

2009-03-21T19:05:00.000-07:00

A week ago in Port Augusta seems so so so far away.Am writing this from underground in Coober pedy, SA.Not so sure what to write.we're in the beginiing of the desert now.Feel like the adventure is just gonna keep happening.Too many memorable moments and Be has shared some of them already...man i dont where to start.i keep thinking about what Kev from Bellingen told me: 'when you start asking yourself -why am i doing this?!! People are right, i am bloody stupid!!' is when you know you are living and the adventure begins. Far out i ve had so many of those moments already!! I had a moment on the way to Pimba-it was so hot and we had to get to Spud's (roadhouse) to sleep. The horizon was everywhere-as the was the sun and saltbush and red dirt, plus the occasional roadtrain. The largeness and harshness of the land hit me. it felt like we were trying to suss each other out, and i wasnt quite sure of the result. im not trying to beat this land-im out to understand. compare that to walking into spuds to an encore saying 'well done!! didnt expect to see you girls tonight after those hills!!' Troy and Classic Dave-brought those spirits way up high. Ryan helped us out with a place to crash THANKYOU! and then a view of salt lakes we never expected and a breakfast cooked by Bruce- aka Diamond Chef, that i will store forever :) Took us to Glendambo , more specialness from Rod, Louise and Lisa @ Mobil Roadhouse, and then back on the road.

20-something km/hr headwinds. we felt defeated and pretty flat.till someone walked over the hill as were stretching with a most beautiful smile.A hug from which i felt so much love transferred and a note to Shinowah (one who walks with the wind) -very apt for the day. thus we realised, yes, its all part of the journey!

under our first sunset with clouds we met Mike from Alice, cooking on the coals.we shared stroies under the stars while sitting in gravel.cant wait to catch up in alice and go bush for a few days!! Mike's calmness in being alone brought a peacefulness to me. At no point have people said we're unable, just that we're either mad or brave!! haha.

feel like everyday im stepping into another level of challenge.to push the comfort level is good.we slept under the stars off the road enroute to Cooberpedy-bit scary-got up at 4am to ride 90km before the heat of the day.Adversity was the word of the day.we got to ampol roadhouse to pick up our next lot of food and could do no more than sit in the shade of datre palm and eat iceblocks.where we met greg and jonesy! would you believe we swapped?!! they stole our bikes and we got booted into the car! well not truly, but they did take our bikes and we were completely spoilt with leg massages from the pro.2 days ehre in CP-ive needed it for mind heart and to restore my peace within.its a lot more mental effort than i had thought..thanks to kids who beep and wave along the way its so encouraging!!

im looking forward to being back onm the road and taking the world slowly.being gracious to let her deal me what she will.

mel xx

Pimba - Coober cont.

2009-03-21T18:32:00.000-07:00

pimba - coober Pedy

2009-03-21T17:47:00.000-07:00

cycling into the outback

2009-03-21T17:10:00.000-07:00

Sun 15th March. Wow cycling along only 5 kms out of Port Augusta and the trees have turned to shrubs, the dirt has changed froam a soft fawn to a deep red and the clouds hang from teh sky as if suspended by strings. A wedge tailed eagle crosses our path, soaring in such a controled and graceful manner. Endless blue sky contrasting with the orange/red earth, Mel cycling just ahead and emus in the bush... does life get any better than this?
Camp 1 consists of commando like sprints from tree to tree ensuring no passing vehicles see where we'll be camping... hilarious!
Next day 6 am rise... nope 6:30... nope 7am, finally brekky done bikes packed and we're on teh road aagain. Coffee supplied by some lovely Brittish tourists in a camper van... thanks guys :). Pushing on the scenery changes again, endless sky, endless horizon, no trees... eeeekkkk! Focus on getting to the next rest place. 85kms and the road barely changes. 8kms to Pimba Awesome! What a place... everyone must visit Spuds Roadhouse!! Bed, Beer and plenty of awesome folk to meet. Generosity so far has been overwhelming, Ryan, Dave and Troy you guys rock!!:) Bruce and crew, words can not even begin to describe how amazing your hospitality was! Time of my life. Your food parcels saved us... literally. Breakfast, so special (I have not eaten meat in over 10 years, let alone a T. Bone steak, t'was soooooo good!) Again thank you so much... keep in touch yeah! Well onto to Glendambo.... wooooooooooooooooooo xx Be

'yeahyeahyeah, sit down and eat ya breakfast!'

2009-03-21T02:41:00.000-07:00

BRUCE! we didnt grab your contact details and would love to be in touch and catch up in tennant ck...email us or post a comment!!

sorries

2009-03-12T08:51:00.000-07:00

2 am ...english bad...spelling worse xx

2.11am

2009-03-12T08:41:00.000-07:00

what day is it?oh, its morning isnt it. do we leave TODAY?!!! are you serious?!
Be is farting.mel is giggling. (now she's getting dirty looks from Be)
we leave in less than 24hours and still dont know how to use our stove.mels front pasnniers havent yet arrived.the markets tooe arly on us, we have no food.but we do have photos of a 'rad bike' we met at adelaide train station...and a lovely lady called myrtle (baya)...the tackiest pub in the universe, seriuosly, that made Be's sisters xmas decorations look miniscule.(fairylight trees.plastic+lights.see photos to understand) a confirmation from cooperpedy, thanks BUNDI! that we can store stufff there.a town with 12 people in it, who all work in the pub.

and the most helpful (non-condacending) outdoor guru form paddypallin adelaide-dorjee-you rock!!

now we must sleep in our gracious (over and above oh my goodness!)hosts' home-coralie and richard and winnie and andrew.thankyou!!!!

brekky@8.30, see ya there!!

mel&be

xxx

(p.s.-home daggy videos, we warned you! (there's no JC to set the bar...just wait.) wait for buffer on slideshow and press play...midnight hysteria on rocking chairs about to have a desert adventure...
ahem.night!

2009-03-08T22:31:00.000-07:00

sup sista!!
my bike (sedona) is in at cheeky's getting a lil lovin' im runnin/ridin/walkin up and down king st similarly to a headless chook.
im packin tonight and only have back panniers-the front ones are being expressed posted to us (well, sam's work) from central coast...eeeep!!

your packing will be awesome.we can share so much stuff (toothpaste, camera, bicarb-deodorant, tapes, ahhhheee!)

see you early early.well, whenever you get up, shes all good.
i'll msg you deets of house :)

see you soooooonn!!!!

xxx

one more sleep

2009-03-07T21:50:00.000-08:00

yo Mel... Tomorrow I leave the familiar surroundings of my home town Warrnambool, in two days I'll be in Adelaide filling in time untill you arrive. I've packed and unpacked about three times, trying to reduce the amount of crap I'm bringing. Toilet paper... don't forget the toilet paper. check.
See you on Wednesday lady for breakfast, coffee, bikes and beer:)

xx

prepreprep

2009-03-05T19:07:00.000-08:00

after an 11hour train trip from northern NSW beautiful bellingen i stepped out back into sydney...eeee so loud, it smelt bad and i couldnt see the stars.its been an amazing 3 and a bit weeks up north and havent really felt i could totally say goodbye to a new family in the hills...and im sitting writing this booking trains, bussess, making sure people will let me take my bike...getting the bike (thommo's-thankyou!!!) ready with front racks, tyres, trying to get my head around whats ahead.nervous.nervous.lil excited.nervous.

haha!!

orright BE.its all on.

looking forward to adelaide.a cold coopers.a big hug.then some knuckledown map/packing /food sorting action.

welcome friends to our blog...yew!!

xx

preparation

2009-03-05T04:20:00.000-08:00

Sewing, cutting, sticking... I invent numerous ways of saving the precious space in my pannias, a portable kitchen, a miniature toolshed (in a drink bottle) and fewer fashion items- out with the high heels and lipstick. After some time I sit, continuously going over the distances between water stops... 150 ks, what... 250ks... how many days riding is that? How much water will we need to carry? What about cooking? I fill up one of my 3 litre water bottles, goodness, sooooo heavy! How many litres did I say I wanted to carry? 10? eeeeeeek!!
So overwhelmed, then I speak to Mel, we chat nervously and excitedly. Thats right two months on the road with Toad... awesome!