Alice Springs and beyond

woah, where to begin...

In order I think, so firstly Benny! Dude, thankyou sooooo much, not just for your genrosity, goodtimes, amazing food and spectacular sunrise but most importantly for giving me the opportunity to completely relax. For the first time since leaving my mountains home I felt 100%, completely uninhibited Be! Hanging out withh you was like hanging out with someone I had known for years... no formalities needed! Loved it and loved you, keep sipping that tea:)
Then there was Mike. Wow. What an amazing soul! Your love, respect and curiosity for the land inspires me so much. It was so nice to meet someone whho just loves to be out there. I feel there was so much to learn from you and am sad we didn't track you down sooner. I loved bouncing my imagination off yours and the chats were such a breath of fresh air. Thank you and Andrea both for sharing your peice of teh world with us... know we'll see you again, hopefully under the stars in teh middle of nowhere.
So many more people and to you I send much love (greg, sorry we didn't catch you at teh second footy match...bummer! Might bump into you in Gunnadah eh?).
Alice Springs not sure what to make of her. Loved her and hated her. Like most towns she had her good and her bad. Being on bikes for 3 weeks and teh restrictions that come with this mode of transport, possibly made it hard to enjoy the surrounding beauty. However, when we finally did get out and see some sights we really appreciated them and their remoteness. Visiting Standley chasm gently placed a seed in teh back of my mind... can I fit the whole larapinta trail into the end of my trip and if I can not find another interested party, could I walk it alone?
My heart says yes, my head sayssave it for teh next trip! (any takers?).
Anyway we left Alice yesterday after a week off our bikes. A big day 90km! We were meant to get to Aileron but fancied sleeping under teh stars again... can't get enough of this amazing night sky. Very little energy in the morning but after second breakfast I felt back in the swing of it. Most of teh ride was a bit of a blurr, and the landscape was full of trees.
Sitting at the rest stop Mel and I sip cool jasmine tea (thanx Benny) and relax. The eat of teh day hits me like a massive wave and I'm left lying on the concrete seat, recovery needed. By mid afternoon Mels got coals ready for tonights dinner, we sit doing our own thing, occasionally flipping through the memories on our camera... wow, we are actually doing this. I know heaps of people have done it before us and are doing it now, but for us it is such a huge adventure. Challenging, mentally (must keep pedaling), physically (must keep pedaling). The sunsets as we eat dinner, cooked to perfection on teh coals. Night has arrived and we get our first flat! weird! Together we sit in teh dark and fix thhe damn thing... again a perfect partnership, despite the challenge of bike mechanics by torch light spirits are high and giggles are loud... too loud! After 3 shooting stars I remove my specs and dream the nighht away.
4 am- time to get up, damn it's cold.

Be xx

Camping with mike and reflections of alice

Intoxication, social paralysis, yet socially acceptable. It seems nothing in this peculiar desert oasis can be complete with out it. Buildings whhere foriegn tourists come only to socialise with other foreign tourists, in a world where reality is at teh very least blurred, if not completely masked by the affects of multiple drugs (both legal and illegal).
Paranoia, aggression, ecstasy and lust... all I see are humans in distress. Conversations about "our indegenous peoples and their lack of respect and responsability". What, I ask, is so respectful about coming to a country driving to a rest area (for free camping), crapping in teh bush and not even bothering to walk 50 meters from your van to take in the amazing veiw. Where is the responsibility in coming to another country to kill off your brain cells in the pursuit of social acceptance and arrogance? Rant over.
And now to camping (out of Alice). Flies everywhere, but nothing a quick swish and swoosh won't fix. Sharing a campfire with beautiful souls, crows watch from teh branches, the wind gently slides through the trees and the wood crackles as the flames wrap around the branches. Birds are singing away as usual and the only other sound is the scratching of my pen... hmmmmmmmmm could stay here forever (or untill it got too hot;))

Be xx

katherine

made it to katherine!!

swam with waterlillies in the bush springs yesterday-hheaded to gorges and waterfalls for a week up to darwin!

sorry noi new posts, have heaps but no time. will do as soon as we have time, space and chheap internet.

love toad and mole

xx

go down like an ape

PHOTOS UNDERNEATH BLOGS LOADED ON TEH 6TH OF APRIL... CHECK THEM OUT!!

WE LOVE YOU ALL BUT HAVE NO RECEPTION, WE'RE ON THE ROAD.

TOAD AND (WINDY) mOLE XX

OI BRUCE WHERE THE HELL ARE YOU???

alice...

Wow.cant believe im here. Sitting in the afternnoon sun. The landscape is red and green (a kind of musty, teal green mind you) and long. In a backyard who's backdrop is a massive stoney ridge-better known as 'the gap'. In the streets of Alice (to quote Be) we have big dogs (short fences) and homemade potato schnapps-not American guns!
Its a funny feeling being back in a town again. We've rested for 2 days and ventured out not much!! Aiming to get all our admin done today (hence all the blogs up at once!) so we can begin to explore the ranges and the land outside of town. My craving for flavoured milk has subsided since being still and out of the elements. Ive had 2 grumpy sessions. It's such a rollercoaster. Not only physical, but mental and emotional too. Be is incredible and im so grateful i can be so honest with her. none of its taken personal-its all just part of the ride. being amongst internet, phone, houses brings something back that i love being away from. the last little while weve been cooking on fires-not bothering with cookers. and you feel somewhat confined ina town where it seems all you can do is spend money (even if you have none?!! how?!!) i also start to miss people in town setting-who apart from Be know me real well. I guess its that relaxation silence you can have with friends. but we are being so spoilt. the people we've met and have been looking after us-too incredible to ruin with words. just under halfway...incredible. i close my eyes and feel the warmth of the sun being soaked up by my skin..delicious. the wind blows my hair.have to keep reminding myself that this is all real. remember it and experience it for what it is: indescribable.
(toad)mel x

daydreaming by bike

After a short break from our bikes my bum finds itself back on the familiar narrow saddle. Again tired, yet I feel as though my legs are strong. After a short distance my mind wanders from the spectacular stars overhead to more personal and irrelevant things. Pointless distractions from the distance we are trying to make. I think about: returning the panniers to Duncan
living arrangements in Sydney
centrelink business in Alice Springs

Then to my right the suns starts to glow, her rays washes away all these trivial thoughts and again I'm left with nothing but awe at the diverse landscape. Not what I envisioned the desert to be. The ant hills which were sitting on the horizon are now standing tall on either side of us, strange trees line the ridges sporadically. As it does to so many, the landscape appears prehistoric. My imagination takes over...
We began as biminisculeherbosaurus', over time we have evolved into biminisculeomniosaurus'! As we make our way across the land in search of greater food sources or a more satisfying climate we are passed by some caravaners. Ahh the inquisitive and generous - these I imagine are brachasaurus', also making the pilgrimage north. The cars, who move with speed and stealth, should always be treated with caution - much like the raptor. Finally the fiercest predator of all, the Tyrannasaurus Rex (AKA the road trains).
I love allowing myself to fall backwards into the arms of my imagination, bringing with me the landscape and teh new day. Another T.Rex roars up behind us, you can hear them miles away. The roar grows louder and we wobble off onto the gravel for protection. Safe. Back on the road. SNAP... an impressive sight brings me back to reality. A wedge tail eagle soars overhead. I love this country. I love my bike and the places it can take me.
Wow, only 5 km to stuart wells, my legs are strong and all I can think of is flavoured milk.

Be (windy Mole) xx

mt Ebenezer

Hitting me @ Mt Eb
Its hitting me every now and then what an adventure we're on. Everday so different. Be's buzzing and amazing and awesome and living up to her name-windymole so well.only tears thus far have been onesof unbelief @ the generosity and goodness we ahve been shown. feel slightly lonely after 3 days @ Mt Eb, but being back on the bike felt amazing....woooooooo!!!!!! Mel xx

Mt Ebenezer - 200km from Uluru

Freedom to sit, lounge, daydream and sleep. I feel as though all are welcome to come here and drift away. Still over stimulated and excited to meet some of Chevvy's friends. Smiles, high energy and loud words explode from us as we approach the counter. Every roadhouse we visit we take over, staying 4 times as long as most. Here though it is madness! Bus loads of tourists, on their way to the rock, stop here. Tour guides usher them off the busses. Surging forward the masses sit inside and devour their sandwiches, salads and sweets. 15 min later and the round up begins, piles if plastic, cardboard and food scraps fall thoughtlessly into the garbage bin. Silence. Bewildered. Shrugging it off (what else can I do, I too am apart of the transient hoards) Igo and check out the local gallery. Women from the local community come to paint and design, food is their central theme. A special moment... "come, come watch" and we are invited into their creative space. No need for too much verbal communication. Such an honor, to be asked to share their art. "Photo", Rosie* mimes the action of taking a photo. Usually a no no or an exchange for money, but nothing more than a beautiful gesture and a memory. However rules are not meant to be disregarded and we are asked to leave. Humbled.

Be xx


Daydreaming by bike

After a short break from our bikes my bum finds itself back on the familiar narrow saddle. Again tired, yet I feel as though my legs are strong. After a short distance my mind wanders from the spectacular stars overhead to more personal and irrelevant things. Pointless distractions from the distance we are trying to make. I think about: returning the panniers to Duncan
living arrangements in Sydney
centrelink business in Alice Springs

Then to my right the suns starts to glow, her rays washes away all these trivial thoughts and again I'm left with nothing but awe at the diverse landscape. Not what I envisioned the desert to be. The ant hills which were sitting on the horizon are now standing tall on either side of us, strange trees line the ridges speratically. As it does to so many, the landscape appears prehistoric. My imagination takes over...
We began as biminisculeherbosaurus', over time we have evolved into biminisculeomniosaurus'! As we make our way across the land in search of greater food sources or a more satisfying climate we are passed by some caravaners. Ahh the inquisitive and generous - these I imagine are brachasaurus', also making the pilgrimage north. The cars, who move with speed and stealth, should always be treated with caution - much like the raptor. Finally the fiercest predator of all, the Tyrannasaurus Rex (AKA the road trains).
I love allowing myself to fall backwards into the arms of my imagination, bringing with me the landscape and teh new day. Another T.Rex roars up behind us, you can hear them miles away. The roar grows louder and we wobble off onto the gravel for protection. Safe. Back on the road. SNAP... an impressive sight brings me back to reality. A wedge tail eagle soars overhead. I love this country. I love my bike and the places it can take me.
Wow, only 5 km to stuart wells, my legs are strong and all I can think of is flavoured milk.

Be (windy Mole) xx

river bed camping

Red river gum camps @ Agnes Creek-SA/NT border
cant believe we're here!! Camping at the border-even if we only make it this far, we done good!! Last nights camp was beautiful. i remember watching a documentary about these apparant ghost rivers. They're wide, with red sand and massive green gums. The trees look so alive and vibrant compared to the rest of the landscape. Their roots go a long way down into moisture. Anyway, thats where we camped last night!! Just with the fly- we looked up and coulod see the entire sky full of stars. Incredible. Felt safe. Thought i heard a howl...
So many birds today! flock of irradescent green out of a bush, parrotts, hawkes. There was such a shimmering in the sky then it dissapeared. birds travelling all together.had to keep repeating to myself-'homestretch, homestretch, homestretch' to get to the border. fly net super handy!!
(toad) mel x

onto erldunda

Todays ride was glorious. As I pedaled along at a decent and managable pace I wish I had paid more attention in school. Dissappointed that my vocabulary is far too small to continue describing the everchanging landscape. Again the expansive sky takes me by surprise. The sun sneaks up behind me and before I know it the dark indigo sky is replaced by a blue that is both soft and vibrant. As teh sun rises to the east a purple ring sits just above the horizon in the west.
I feel good again today and my legs are starting to feel strong... I know though that this is momentary and that at any minute I could be back on the ground demanding a 15 min power nap. Before we know it we a rolling into Erldunda. So many people in one place, we are overwhelmed and over stimulated. Hyperactivity kicks in and we must look like the wiggles on speed!

Kulgera

The stars are up and our flashy lights are on. We can see the lights of the roadhouse but it looks fenced in. How the heck do we get in? Finally two massive road trains pull in and reveal the descrete turn off. Road signs in the outback seem slightly miss placed; "so, where should we put the sign?" "awww over there'll do I reckon!". Entering the roadhouse a trucky mummbles something... indecipherable. Then I turn to the counter, there leaning in hard on both hands stands a tattooed giant, his hardened stare goes straight through me. A nervous laugh escapes my lips as I explain what the hell Mel and I are doing in Kulgera at 9pm wearing lycra. The response "dickheads" then silence. No change of expression and I can still feel his stare drilling into me; again "dickheads, camping costs $11 but there's no room, bookeds out". I suggest cycling back 20kms to camp at teh border... Mel refuses. Not sure I've heard correct I ask again, still no expression just a flat "we're booked out". We decide to step aside and chat about options, then there it is, the corner of his mouth (barely visible due to the moustach which flares out all the way down and under his chin) curves slightly and the cheekiest grin appears but nothing more. Humour! No longer feeling out of my depth I explode into a fit of laughter and return teh slander "aww your bloody dickhead". Immediately there's a connection and this scary giant suddenly takes us under his wing. Turns out Chevvy lived next door to Pro Hart (owns a couple of originals) and has lived a pretty wild and public life. Upon leaving the most sincere gesture lets me know that no matter where I am there will be someone watching out for me. A sensitive soul in disguise. "This is out back country Australia - spend more money you bastards" but for us funds are low and it will be a budget trip for the next 1700kms.

Be xx

sunrises inbetween deserts

Imagine the whole night sky with no trees, hills, buildings, lights. The horizon is visible everywhere. The milkyway stretches from one side to the other-it almost looks curved. So still and quiet. The wind and the creaky pedals are all i can hear. The only light coming from our headtorches.The noise on the road tricks us by thinking there are trucks-but there's not, it's just us. Slowly, slowly the black starts to glow to our right. The suns on her way. She does it real slow but puts on an incredible show. Its amazing-to your right the sky is changing-but the moon still shines so bright-to your left.The stars seem reluctant to go. How can it all exist at once?! soon the stars have left and all around are tones of lavender, pale rose pink with a taurine blue in between. Except where the sun is-thats either a butter yellow or a peachy pink, then it transforms to orangey or an even richer yellow. The grass tufts look slightly pink, the saltbush looks silver and could almost be shimmering. And the dirt. Such a rich, deep red.As far as you can see is landscape. It used to intimidate me, but now im just awed by it. silenced by. when the sun has risen-it totally feels like a new day. the early morning has been washed away and im refreshed and keen for however many hours and kms we have to go.
(toad) mel x

leaving Marla

Another early rise 3:30 am! Yesterday was a rest day yet I have trouble winding down. No matter how tired I am there are things to be done and they run through my mind at such a pace I almost feel dizzy.
Finding a kindred spirit, short, gassy and an artist who holds his work close and rarely shares, loves people and their stories, listens as well as gives. Smiling eyes and a sensitivity that contrasts with his weather beaten skin and bristly beard. Pat never allow your creativity to fade.
An extra lemon-lime bitter takes us later into the evening. Good company and reluctant good nights. Still in the back of my mind I know we are just a distraction in what is otherwise a mans world...
Back to this morning... not enough sleep. Body feels fine but need more sleep. Can't talk, can barely pedal. The stars are breath taking. No moon. 6:15 and the sky is still black. Large shrubs cast dark shadows on both sides of the road. The only sound is the rythmic whirring of our tires on the road as we ride side by side. Eyelids heavy, teh weight of my head seems to increase with every 500 meters. My load feels heavy. I ask Mel if I'm carrying too much... prob just tired though. Hungry again, my stomach feels like it's eating itself even though we had lentils before we left! Can't seem to eat enough.
The dark shadows are now visible and reveal a scattering of trees and shrubs. Slowly the sun turns the sky to yellow, everything is so clear and crisp... brekky time!
Stomach satisfied and we puish on. Eyelids still heavy. Microsleeps mean I miss the landscape, occasionally nodding of off yet my legs continue to pedal. Microsleeps turn into slightly longer periods of escapism - amazing, even in this state I manage to ride relatively straight. I no longer have any control over my conciousness and I pull over immediately. "Mel I need a 15 minute nap". Straight onto the gravel, kick my stand and drop to the ground:
MEL: you should move into the shade
BE: nope... zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

15min nap and I'm back on my bike and my legs are charging away... eyes definately open
Be xx

cadney... not a moment to soon

Finally arrived at cadney roadhouse. 9pm. Today we rode 160kms... wow! Coming out of coober Pedy in teh dark at 4am was, for both of us, eerie. A town that appears deserted both day and night haunts me for at 40 kms, only then am I able to relax. Anxiety sets a good pace for riding though and we cover 90kms before lunch.
Sleeping in the heat of the day is better than riding, but flies torment us constantly. Tossing and turning I manage to slip in and out of slumber land. Time to hit the road 5:30pm and the sun still stings, teh air is heavy and the further north we go the more humid the climate.
50/60 kms till Cadney... easy! F**k... head wind again! Gradual incline in the road and I go through waves of optimism generally dominated and pushed aside by fatigue and defeat. Find teh zone Be, head down concentrate on your breathing and before I know it I'm surging forward at a respectable pace. SNAP... we're never going to get there. I hate the rollercoasterof mindsets, slipping from one to teh other in a matter of seconds. Night falls and heavy cloud cover sheilds the sunset, stealing my magical moment. No gasp of amazement, no confirming moment as to why I'm doing this. Day turns to night without expression and we must push on.
20kms out and we can see the lights of Cadney roadhouse, hopes are ellevated and new found strength drives my legs harder. An hour later and you can still not be sure how far away the roadhouse is. Distance can not be measured, estimation helps mental perserverance but has no real accuracy... pointless trying to guess. Finally arrival... skull a cold drink... sleep.

Be xx

made it to alice!

we've made it to alice and are enjoying downtime...bit weird being in civilisation. Be's got some words and theres piccies below...awesome

be & mel
xxx