Kulgera

The stars are up and our flashy lights are on. We can see the lights of the roadhouse but it looks fenced in. How the heck do we get in? Finally two massive road trains pull in and reveal the descrete turn off. Road signs in the outback seem slightly miss placed; "so, where should we put the sign?" "awww over there'll do I reckon!". Entering the roadhouse a trucky mummbles something... indecipherable. Then I turn to the counter, there leaning in hard on both hands stands a tattooed giant, his hardened stare goes straight through me. A nervous laugh escapes my lips as I explain what the hell Mel and I are doing in Kulgera at 9pm wearing lycra. The response "dickheads" then silence. No change of expression and I can still feel his stare drilling into me; again "dickheads, camping costs $11 but there's no room, bookeds out". I suggest cycling back 20kms to camp at teh border... Mel refuses. Not sure I've heard correct I ask again, still no expression just a flat "we're booked out". We decide to step aside and chat about options, then there it is, the corner of his mouth (barely visible due to the moustach which flares out all the way down and under his chin) curves slightly and the cheekiest grin appears but nothing more. Humour! No longer feeling out of my depth I explode into a fit of laughter and return teh slander "aww your bloody dickhead". Immediately there's a connection and this scary giant suddenly takes us under his wing. Turns out Chevvy lived next door to Pro Hart (owns a couple of originals) and has lived a pretty wild and public life. Upon leaving the most sincere gesture lets me know that no matter where I am there will be someone watching out for me. A sensitive soul in disguise. "This is out back country Australia - spend more money you bastards" but for us funds are low and it will be a budget trip for the next 1700kms.

Be xx